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时尚记忆和意识形态

Fashion Memories and Ideologies

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【作者】 阿列西·艾尔雅维奇史晓林

【Author】 Ale? Erjavec;Research Centre of the Slovenian Academy of Sciences and Arts;

【机构】 斯洛文尼亚科学与艺术研究院哲学研究所浙江大学传媒与国际文化学院美学所

【摘要】 全文分为三个部分,第一部分是对东欧(主要是南斯拉夫)、美国等地区六七十年代日常生活中时尚的回忆,主要包括有牛仔服、喇叭裤、带花卉图案的领带等时尚的流行,最后点明当下日常生活中的民主化使得时尚和奢侈品很难出现;第二部分是对服装时尚历时性发展的梳理,说明了现代时尚与古代时尚的不同,并指出了现代时尚中的特例(包含有政治信息):背带裤,并由此引出了第三部分讨论的重点;第三部分主要对带有政治意识形态的背带裤时尚做了分析,探讨了背带裤在不同历史语境下所蕴含的意识形态,背带裤的设计与先锋派、意大利未来主义、俄国结构主义思想的关联。

【Abstract】 This article is a speech made by Professor Aleg Erjavec at the International Symposium on"Contemporary Aesthetics and Anthropology;Fashion Studies"jointly organized by the College of Media and International Culture of Zhejiang University and Zhejiang University of Media and Communications in September 2017.The full text is divided into three parts.The first part is the memory of daily life in the sixties and seventies in Eastern Europe(mainly Yugoslavia)and the United States.It mainly includes jeans,bell-bottoms,and tie with floral patterns.Finally,it is pointed out that the democratization of daily life makes fashion and luxury goods difficult to appear;the second part is the combing of the diachronic development of fashion,which illustrates the difference between modern fashion and ancient fashion,and points out the special cases(including political information)of modern fashion;overalls.It leads to the third part of the discussion;the third part mainly analyzes the fashion of the trousers with political ideology,explores the overalls in different historical contexts.Under the ideology,the design of the overalls is associated with the avant-garde,Italian futurism,and Russian constructivism.

【关键词】 时尚背带裤意识形态先锋派
【Key words】 Fashionoverallsideologyavant-garde
【基金】 国家社科基金重大项目“当代美学的基本问题及批评形态研究”(15ZDB023)的阶段性成果
  • 【文献出处】 马克思主义美学研究 ,Research on Marxist Aesthetics , 编辑部邮箱 ,2019年01期
  • 【分类号】TS941.2;D091
  • 【下载频次】54
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